Saturday, December 24, 2011

The Wild SF of the Hoh

South Fork of the Hoh by i like bees
South Fork of the Hoh, a photo by i like bees on Flickr.
You turn off Highway 101 and head to the Hoh. But not that Hoh. Instead, you drive along a very quiet paved road, and see no tourists. No signs for the rainforest, no rainforest outfitters.  Definitely no coffee. Instead, endless miles of very, very young trees.  If you look as you drive, you can see the giant old stumps of an ancient forest.  You follow poor signage and try not to end up on some random logging road, and the closer you get, the narrower the road is, the stranger the place feels... but eventually, you cross a beautiful river, water flowing across carved sandstone.

Continuing on, the road turns, and up, up you go, to a level bench, recently logged off.  You wonder:  surely, this must be the road, but this is so confusing -- no signs!  A few more turns, more uncertainty -- perhaps you get out your map.  But, yes, finally, the road ends, you park, get out of your car, and there is the trusty trailhead sign, confirming that you have indeed arrived at a destination few seek.  A few miles of trail lead to a place truly remote: the SF of the Hoh. Here bear walk in winter, giant spruce trees form columns along the trail, and you are in a place that is truly wild.

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